Terra Firma

We made it back to Kangerlussuaq, where the river waters had risen and the fjord was gorgeous. There was humidity in the air and the small town somehow seemed a bustling metropolis. Insects buzzed the shuttle bus, we were able to ride bikes and walk around town without worry of windchill or postholing through the top layer of ground.

Lance and I decided to hike over the ridge to reach the end of the season bbq. It was well worth it to stretch the legs and experience browns that somehow oozed vibrancy. The gathering occurred on Lake Ferguson, even though it is frozen most of the year that particular day it was warm and welcoming.










It was a nice end to a summer season in Greenland and a great place to transition before experiencing crowded airports and a climate that is amiable. I am back in the States and currently enjoying free lightning quick internet as I wait for my flight to depart home. The Air National Guard flight went smoothly yesterday and as we departed I certainly felt gratitude for my time in Greenland and the folks who made it possible.

The Final Countdown

Tomorrow could be my final full day at Summit, as far as I am concerned I have accomplished a lot. At the risk of tooting my own horn, I think back on the time here and I feel a sense of accomplishment. Most importantly, all the instruments are operational for ICECAPS, I learned how to skate ski - making it to the end of the skiway and back in under an hour, and have learned a lot about living on the ice with valuable field experience.

I'm headed back to Madison, my amazing wife, and family to be. I've had time to digest becoming a father and am excited to take the leap. Who knows what the future had in store, but I certainly know I'm ready for green trees, warm breezes and a vibrant fall. I will continue to use the data from the Microwave Radiometers for retrieving temperature profiles and cloud properties, building for my Masters thesis.


As the temps drop to well below ten or twenty below, the summer is certainly ending. It wasn't the warmest, nor the most exciting, but I've had time to reflect on the past, prepare for the future and learn from the present. I am fortunate to be return to people I love and a program I truly enjoy. The sun has set but I'll always remember my time on thick ice.

Friends

If the fog clears this morning, the turnover crew will arrive today marking the start of my last week at Summit. It will be a busy one of calibrations, installations and preparations for the winter. It's been an awesome experience this summer and the people that run the station are dedicated and extremely competent at their jobs. Most have experience in Antarctica and seem to enjoy the small numbers here in Greenland as many have reclusive tendencies.

It is a unique situation, in that you are in close quarters with fellow Summit Campers with no place to go. I arrived halfway through the summer season while most of the core group has been here since April and know each other very well. With any extended living situation this can become knowing each other too well. Yet disregarding the insignificant gripes and small things that can add up to hit a nerve, this group is a well oiled machine that does their job with a humble efficiency and laid back congeniality.

While everyone isn't BFFs there is a sense of respect and camaraderie that accompanies working in this Arctic environment. I'm lucky to have been paired with such quality folks this summer, making my job that much more straight forward. There is no need to worry about power, water, food, and repairs are abundant with the recent arrival of the carpenters.

Living in such tight quarters I cannot help but get to know those around me and I've been happy to make what I consider to be new friends that I wouldn't have meet otherwise. Cribbage has been the staple card game at Summit with some friendly poker sprinkled in. The latest game to hit the scene was horseshoes which turned out to be harder to play in the snow than in sand. Travis, who has to be the most entertaining personality here, and I paired up for a round of horseshoes in which he did get the game's lone ringer. It is usually all or nothing with that fella, as evidenced by my sweet haircut courtesy of Travis. I told him "a little off the ears" but was surprisingly happy with a new mullet.

Good Eatin'

The Big House is a versatile place. We have morning meetings there at 8am, there are movies to be watched, games to be played and most importantly food to be eaten. Q is a master chef, able to create any type of dish from Thai dishes to NY style pizza. It has been a pleasant surprise to be able to eat so well at Summit. Last night we enjoyed Duck with pineapple rice and s'mores cake for dessert. Every night it takes a lot of will power not to keep going back for some more.

We rotate "house mouse" duty, which entails a lot of dishes and generally keeping the Big House clean. The dish pit can be pretty daunting but it is certainly worth the work in order to enjoy the fruits of Q's cooking.

Dusk and/or Dawn

The sun has been up since I've been at Summit. We are situated above the Arctic Circle at a latitude of 72 degrees north. I prefer the current situation of sunlight 24 hours a day rather than darkness for 24 hours, even though there is no glowing moon and the stars are masked by the scattered blue light of the sky.

Although there are still some tasks to be done the sun is setting on my time here at camp. Last night the sun dipped to the horizon for the first time and even though it still won't get dark for a while it was a welcome gesture. All the instruments are currently collecting data at the MSF (knock on wood) and in a week and a half my replacement arrives for turnover. We have some changes to implement to prepare for the winter so the last week will be very busy but Brad has been here before so hopefully the transition will go smoothly. Right now as I wait for the turnover crew to arrive I definitely sense the twilight settling in.

On a Road to Nowhere

Working at Summit is great, besides the fact that there is no where else to go. In fact I've lived the last seven weeks within about a mile radius of the Big House, without driving a motorized vehicle. That changed yesterday as I helped record measurements for a project called ICESat. Using bamboo poles in the ground we were able to perform ground validation for a satellite that measures the ice sheet mass balance. The height of the poles determine the amount of snow accumulation and the red pod has a GPS tracker on it to correlate the location with the measured depth. Actually the red pod is also used for emergencies in case inclement weather rolls in unexpectedly. I hadn't really ridden a snowmobile before so it was fun to try and good to get away from camp for a few hours.

The expanse of white and feeling of solitude is tough to capture in a picture so I tried to do so in the following short video. The furthest away from camp we got was about 4 miles and we could always see the station in the distance. The flags are well spaced for the entire route since they take these measurements once a week year round even in the dark. Honestly, I'm glad I'm not one of the people to head out in the dead of winter. It cold enough in the summer.

Flakes of Snow

One of my favorite sayings goes like this:
"Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else."
As a storm currently rips through Summit camp, my thoughts turn to the different manifestations of atmospheric dynamics. Snowflakes are unique, forming according to the surrounding conditions as they condense from supersaturated water into ice crystals. This well known chart illustrates the different types of snow crystals.

As a science tech, part of my responsibility is to document snowfall events and take pictures using the ICEPIC camera, developed by Chris at the University of Idaho. Since it is July and I'm in the middle of a snow storm with 23 knot winds I thought I share some of the interesting crystals from today.

These bullet rosettes are columns that form off of a solitary ice nucleation event and usually forms in groups of three (right-hand side of the above picture). The "bullets" often break up as seen in the left-hand side. Each type of snow crystal backscatters radiation differently thus there is great uncertainty in retrieving snowfall rates and using the a simple geometry for a generic snow crystal can lead to significant modeling errors. In the past I have also seen capped columns and quite a few types of dendrites which are much larger and fractal-like. I still have yet to find two that are exactly the same.

A New Layer

Once you get below the surface there exists layer upon layer of snow, each layer being unique. Wind, temperature and sunlight all effect the consistency of the snow. There has been a lot of ice core work done here that is valuable in discovering information about the history of earth. We are living in one of the warmer and more stable periods of earth's climate. Air molecules and various particles from past ages were trapped millions of years ago allowing the ice to serve as a sort of "two mile time machine". Ice near the surface gets compacted as new layers form above it and the foundation flows toward the sea, all the while carrying a wealth of information that can be extracted with the right techniques.

Above, my brother and I enjoy spending time with our great grandmother, Olga. In the same way, humans have built upon the foundation of previous generations, with each new generation being a truly unique layer influenced by experience.

Luckily I have two great parents who created a safe environment for me to enter the world with the appropriately bounded freedom to experience it. To the right, I enjoyed being carried on my dad's back as we walk through the woods.

Actually, Cathy and I are preparing to support another layer of life. That's right she's pregnant! She is starting her second trimester and so many thoughts race through my head every day since we found out the good news before I left the States. I am looking forward to being back in a month to prepare for the little one as her belly grows and the days get colder approaching the month of January. Hopefully we can provide the care and love that our family members have given us over the years. I know I'm very excited to see what kind of personality he/she has. From this ultrasound it seems the little one is enjoying the womb; kickin' it with legs crossed and head held high.

Visitors

It has been a busy week here at Summit. The carpenters are here for the rest of the summer to make improvements and repairs. A slew of reporters were here for a few days taking pictures and getting the scoop. It fun to think that what I'm doing everyday at the camp is interesting to a larger audience. I was able to say quite a lot about the instruments, and hopefully I was able to convey the importance of the Greenland Ice Sheet to Earth's energy balance. I'll keep on eye out for any publications that use information gathered from the last few days.
To the right, Marie launches a radiosonde while the reporters snap photos.


In addition there was a couple students from Dartmouth College here to test out their prototype robot that is meant to be fully autonomous, running off of solar power while collecting air samples over the ice.

Today a group of high school honor students arrived, hailing from Denmark, Greenland, and the United States. I showed them around a bit this morning, and let two of them launch the balloon.

This snowy afternoon Lance, Kris and I dug what will be a back lit pit allowing the kids to observe the different layers of ice.

Even though it has been busy I did have a chance to go kite boarding the other night. The wind wasn't very strong but I think I am getting the hang of the sailing on the ice.

Halfway Home

Looking back on the first part of my time at Summit, the experience thus far has expanded my views and has been a wonderful learning experience.

On the flip side I seem to be hitting the point where I am missing my life in Madison on a deeper level. I am certainly not complaining about my ability to have this summer adventure, yet I'm sure it is necessary to acknowledge where the grass is greener. Speaking of which, I miss the green grass and tranquil sunsets after a hot summer day, a cold beer on the terrace, or a contemplative stroll though the woods of a local park.

While these sensory experiences are missed, there is a deeper nostalgia for being a part of a family. My wife and I have shared a lot during our time in Madison, and it is the little things that add up to create the whole. From cooking new dishes made from local veggies grown at our friend's CSA to saying good morning to Huxley as she motivates off the couch. As a family we have created a place to call home that is welcoming, healthy and supportive. I've missed this all along but as the halfway point approaches this Thursday, I have found myself pining more than usual.

I know I will make the most of the second half of the Greenland experience but I can't help but think about warm embraces, green trees, and Sunday naps on the couch.

Summer Fun

Last night we played a round of bocce ball in the cold after dinner. It's good to get outside when the wind is low and have a little "summer" fun.

Although I didn't win the game, I scored a point on this round.Me, Brandon, Chris and Quentin

Quentin ending up winning the game with some nice shots but I got an extra point for finding his missing ball in this snow drift.

A few nights ago we played a round of golf. The best club to use is the 7 iron, and of course there are only right handed clubs up here. The winner gets to pick the next hole which is often a flag in the snow. I didn't lose a ball during the round which was a victory in my book .

Above: Lance with the short chip while Q and I try and find our golf balls in the snow trap.

Hole 18, back to the club house

Roommate

Although I have to share a room in the Greenhouse, I got lucky in the fact that I am sharing the room with Lance. He's the type of guy who is a veteran of the polar seasons, has numerous stories of harrowing adventures, and can fix an scientific instrument in no time at all. Last night I watched a DVD of his biking/mountaineering/kayak trip to Alaska and back from Washington. Certainly not for the faint of heart, and my opinion has been solidified that he is one who lives for adventure.

The other day the winds picked up to 15-20 knots and Lance was psyched to go kite skiing. Ripping down the skiway looked like a blast but I wondered exactly how easy it was to flying one of those kites. Fortunately he let me test it out with nothing strapped to my feet, and after a few kite crashes I got the hang of flying it while trying to lower it into the power zone. Once I was somewhat confident that the thing wouldn't carry me off into the sunset where the polar bears roam, I put on a snowboard for a test run. After only going about 10 yards at a time, with many kite crashes, it been determined I need to watch the DVD on Kite Boarding even if the instructions are for water not ice.

All in all, it's nice to have a laid-back, knowledgeable and adventurous roommate.

Sensory Perception

The views at Summit are amazing. . . . amazingly white. . . everywhere. I really can't step outside without my sunglasses or goggles. Not your typical summer, as I think of the spring flowers I enjoyed in Madison and the sneezing fits after a nice bike ride to my office.

Besides the occasional lost bird or flower in the window sill, the only living things are the fellow workers and the snow. It is interesting to notice the subtle changes from day to day, changing from crunchy to sparkly to textured and back again. (Talking about the snow, not co-workers)


Hoar frost, or "arctic moss" as my roomate Lance puts it, forms at night when the surface loses heat rapidly and water vapor sublimates, building intricate structures of ice crystals. After creating drifts during high winds, the low wind nights give the surface this subtle texture. Obviously not the vegetation of Wisconsin but it seems my senses are adjusting to what is around me.

Science

The Director of the National Science Foundation made a visit to Summit Camp today, reportedly the first director to do so. I believe I did an adequate job on showing him and the other NSF guests around the MSF while explaining what ICECAPS is about.

They are flying out on a twin otter plane early tomorrow morning. Fortunately the new director, Dr. Suresh, spoke about changes to come in the next month and gave a wonderful overview of the role of the National Science Foundation.

With very little overhead the NSF funds programs in education, social sciences, natural sciences, and pretty much any other science you can think of. It really got me thinking about the value that science has and the deep seeded respect for it I have grown to take for granted.

One question posed to defenders of science is: "What exactly is its value." The value I believe this question refers to is a superficial one, with short term vision and a monetary tone. The true value cannot be known beforehand. An idea could be completely wrong or it could break the surface of our understanding, freeing a rush of new possibilities. Somewhere in between these two extremes the tedious part happens, facts are verified and details are nailed down. This is the value of the NSF, a resource across many disciplines creating opportunities for discovery and innovation.

For me it is easy to see that corporations are not the answer to economic problems. They often have short term gains in sight and despite their judicial rights they suffer little consequences for their wrongs. What must be addressed are issues as a whole, which may include aspects such as social, environmental, economic, energy supply, and health. Without entities like the NSF these pieces are easily compartmentalized and a synergistic solution could be easily disregarded.

As we float down the river of progress we can't hope to always rely on the same notions or we'll find ourselves resourcing the same ideas over and over until they are dry. To carry us further, we need the tools to break though to new well springs of truth. In my opinion scientific thought is the best tool for discovery and innovative solutions.

MSF - the office

Solstice has passed and a sunny one it was. A couple of epic rounds of bocce ball and a movie about zombie sheep (Black Sheep) and the solstice was a success.

No it's not raining, that's a fogbow framing the Mobil Science Facility (MSF).

With the resultant warm weather more visitors are scheduled to come to Summit. I thought since I'll be the one to give tours of the MSF, which houses the ICECAPS instruments, it would be a good time share with you the measurements being done here.

Overall, ICECAPS is a four year project to record cloud, radiation and precipitation properties over the Arctic ice sheet. Basically measuring the atmospheric state of the area from the ground looking upwards.

Nearest and dearest to my heart are the Microwave Radiometers.
These instruments are a part of the project operated by the University of Wisconsin. I've helped to create quicklook images and ensure the data is calibrated.

These bad boys can measure the amount of water vapor in the air (not much) and estimate how much liquid water is condensed into clouds. In addition, the MWRs will be utilized for my master's thesis to retrieve temperature profiles over the ice sheet in order to investigate how these profiles evolve in the presence of various clouds.


I launch a radiosonde every morning at 9:15 local time and earlier if there is a flight coming in.
These weather balloons give a snapshot profile of the atmosphere.


The PAERI instrument, operated by the University of Idaho, is an infrared spectrometer that scans from 3-18um, having the ability to retrieve temperature profiles up to the cloud base and discriminate between ice or liquid phase clouds.


The Ceilometer and the Micro Pulse Lidar (MPL) are similar instruments that detect cloud height. The ceilometer is much better for detecting the low level clouds and is actually used for the incoming flights to make sure visibility is acceptable for landing. The MPL is great for detecting cirrus clouds in addition to the low level mixed phase clouds.




These laser based instruments look up through windows which I check every day when I do my rounds on the roof of the MSF. Pictured here is the CAPABL window, operated by the University of Colorado, which measures backscatter off particles such as aerosols and ice particles of various orientations. The green wavelength laser is powerful enough to damage the eyes so don't look directly down the hatch.




The POSS sensor (right) is a precipitation sensor that can work in conjunction with the radar (below).


This 8mm Doppler Radar is cloud sensitive and can see snowfall events in great detail. Unfortunately the radar was broken when I got here and is the only instrument that isn't operating. In July the replacement parts should arrive and I'll get to reassemble and recalibrate the system. Good stuff except I haven't seen the software yet and haven't worked with waveguides before. Should be interesting, I am looking forward to it.


If you are still with me, the last instrument is a sodar which is good for measuring the speed of the boundary layer, giving a sense of the turbulence and how the surface interacts with the lowest level of the atmosphere.

The sodar chirps a few meters away from the MSF. It is the white box structure, while the tower in the distance samples air and boundary layer properties for a different project.

Plenty to keep me busy, but if things are running smoothly I can launch a radiosonde balloon and do my rounds before lunch, leaving the afternoon to either do research or troubleshoot lingering problems.

After a nice few weeks of settling in I think I'm prepared for what the next month has in store. This will include multiple visits from our source of funds, the National Science Foundation, as well as tours by high school and college honors students and possibly some reporters. I'll have to time my showers well, I know I'm due for one tonight.